Our Course...North

332 Nautical Miles in a Leisurely 32 Days!

Me and My Capitan

   With mixed emotions, Valhalla's course has turned NORTH.  There is a bit of sadness, because our sailing adventures are over for now, with only a bare mast and the hum of the engine as we bump our way toward Mazatlan.  None the less, our adventures are plenty, the winter weather has been warm and the tropical scenery and wildlife are ever changing day after day.

Plenty of Fuel for Motoring North

  

Approaching Mazatlan

Lighthouse at Cabo Corrientes

   

                                                                               















Both Kia Ora and The Beguine are younger couples who have committed this time in their lives to being full time cruisers.   Don and I have been dubbed the "elders of the Fugowi Tribe".  It’s been really nice to have the friendship and security that comes from traveling together this season in Mexico.  I'm grateful for having met them because now Julie, Celeste and I are "The Three Amigas".  

Tres Amigas

   

As usual, careful consideration of the weather needs to be given before heading north.  You can probably count on the wind being on your nose (of the boat) and going against the swells and wind waves.   One major difference, down here in Mexico, is the air temperature makes northern passages much more tolerable along with good planning regarding the weather.

From Las Hadas, Colima to Mazatlan, Sinaloa on our course north, we will shall divide the journey into 3 parts including a week long visit from (Don's big brother) Ken and Loree.

 A Safe Harbor

*** Part #1 - Las Hadas, Colima to La Cruz, Nayarit 

  Just previous to arriving at Las Hadas, Valhalla threw her alternator belt.  We hailed the Tribe and both boats came to stand by (and assist if necessary) as Don replaced the belt while we were adrift.  The engine was HOT, but Don kept his cool while sweating buckets and methodically replacing the belt.  Within about 30 minutes we were up and running again.   

   We’ve been fortunate that Valhalla has been running well for us during our Mexico adventure.  The only other mechanical incident that happened was her ignition switch and solenoid went out.   This happened right when we were ready to depart.  We called in a delay of start and Don got busy and hot-wired Vallhalla.  It pays to keep the engine well maintained and also to have a Capitan who is a bonafied  mechanic!

   We would have 5 stops after leaving Las Hadas.  The first stop was Ensenadas Corrizal; the only unspoiled, uninhabited anchorage we stayed at thus far in Mexico.  It was so nice the first time, we had to stop again.  After 4 days here, we made another short hop and headed back to Barra de Navidad.

Take it Easy, Man!

Water Taxis Servicing Barra de Navidad

       

        

Fish Hut 

400 Year Old Port at Barra de Navidad

 Barra has been our favorite town for provisioning and night life;  FYI…a Sailor’s Midnight is 9:00 pm!  We spent 8 days on Valhalla anchored in the lagoon and then moved to the marina at the beautiful resort called The Grand Bay. The tribe stayed anchored in the lagoon, but came over to visit and share in the resort amenities such as the pool, water aerobics and yoga during the day.  Super Bowl Sunday, we hung out at the pool and later went to town and did a “Taco Crawl” eating street tacos and drinking beer or margaritas.  We caught the last half of the Super bowl in a restaurant called Los Archos and watched the 49er’s lose to the Ravens; so sad.  This was, pretty much, the only television we've watched since September!  Another nice stay in Barra de Navidad.

Me and Me Amigas!

And We Think We're Slow!

 Making our way north back to La Cruz, Nayarit, we stopped at Chamela and Ipala each for one night making our day runs in 7 to 9 hours.  These motor runs north would have been a bit boring had it not been for the amazing show of sea life along the way.  We passed along miles and miles of white sand beach and saw so many large sea turtles riding the slow rolling waves.  A bit later, it was hundreds of sea rays flying up out of the ocean and slapping back down.  The ray show went on for several hours and was so funny to watch, you couldn't help but to laugh!  It’s like they’re trying fly and get out of the ocean…wishing they were birds?  

    Chamela was a large anchorage, looking like a lot of the others with palapa bars lining the beach.   We stayed aboard Valhalla, ate dinner and retired early.   The anchorage at Ipala is very small because fish cages, fishing boats and pangas have dominated the area.  We were lucky that all 3 of our boats were able to squeeze in because wind and wave conditions picked up drastically during the day.   We would have had to continue on all through the night rounding Cabo Corrients in the dark, if we hadn't been able to squeeze in.  We were all having a pretty rough ride in only 14 to 18 knots of wind.  The Kia Ora kitties were sick (and tired) and really wanted to stop…like the rest of us!  We were lucky to get the break we needed.

Mexican Navy

Fishing Boat and Bird Transporter

    Shortly after arriving in Ipala and getting our anchor set, a Mexican man in a panga came over and settled right next to Valhalla.  He started talking in all Spanish and pointing at things on our boat.   With Spanish speaking skills still lacking, trying to figure out what he was saying was a lot like playing charades.    We figured out he wanted us to give him things off the boat and for the children at the school.  I went down below and gathered crayons, felt pens & pencils that I had brought for this purpose.  When I came up, Don was untying one of our dock lines to give him off the boat.  We both handed over the goods to him and then he started talking about manzanas.   I’m like “no, no manzanas” and he said “si, manzanas” and pointed directly through the outside window into the galley where I had apples hanging in a basket.  I’m like…”Oh, apples!” (why didn't you say so).  He was not leaving without some, so I went down and grabbed a couple and handed them off to him.  He gave a small smile and with hardly a thanks, took off.  Turns out, this place is isolated far away from any other towns and makes it very difficult for them to acquire goods including fresh food.  

   The next morning we went on to Cabo Corrientes (translatiion=Cape Currents).   In the daylight hours after a good night of sleep, we had an amazing day rounding the point.  We pulled up anchor and witnessed another beautiful sunrise and the Point Conception of Mexico was only 14 nautical miles ahead.  The sea and wind conditions could not have been any better!  Next, we witnessed another show of sea life...this time WHALES.  This is no whale of a tale either!  We started seeing blow spouts off in the distance looking towards the shore with the lighthouse in view.  Then, out of nowhere, a HUGE whale breached about 30 yards to Valhalla's starboard and slaped down.  A WAY TOO CLOSE!!  Slow down, Valhalla...easy.  Humpback whales are everywhere around the point.  We sighted at least 10 near and far and then 2 more right at 12 o'clock.  Blow spouts, whale tails and breachings, all around us!  Wow...a whale watcher's dream could be a sail boater's nightmare...but, thank God, close doesn't count!

Whale breaching at Cabo Corrientes

Look Close...that white object in the water, down and to the right is a whale breaching!

3 Humpbacks-2 Adults, 1 Baby

It's not a whale of a tale -- It is a whale tail!

     We rounded the point and turned once more into beautiful Banderas Bay! The weather is warm with gentle rolling seas.   There are lush-green mountains surrounding the big blue bay.  Happy to be back in the Bay, as wind conditions are now perfect for SAILING.   No time to waste…”Hoist the mainsail, unfurl the jib and let’s TURN OFF that motor!”    There’s 12 to 15 knots of wind and sweet sailing with a nice run heading straight for La Cruz.  With plenty of daylight left to burn, we jibe and head back towards Cabo Corrientes.  We hear Julie from on the radio excitedly reporting a whale (with a baby) breaches right close to Kia Ora as they make their way it into the anchorage at La Cruz.   One more tack and now Valhalla heads in to anchor with the Tribe.  

Laughing Birds

Smiles a lot when sailing!

We stayed anchored for 3 nights in La Cruz in rolling conditions.  Valhalla headed off back to Paradise Village to get another solar panel and have more metal work done to refine the work-ability of the solar system.  There’s plenty to do in Paradise while we wait for a visit from Don’s brother, Ken and his girlfriend, Loree.  

***Part #2 - A Visit From Big Brother - Paradise Village, Nayarit 

                         

Brothers - Ken and Don

Ken and Loree flew in on Tuesday, February 19 and settled right into the resort life offered at Paradise Village.  Don and I got Valhalla a spot on “A” Dock close by their room.   Every day we all either relaxed poolside or at the beach or went on some kind of a Mexico adventure. We enjoyed several meals and margaritas along with the scenic view from the Vallarta Yacht Club. 

On Thursday, we took a guided overnight tour to San Sebastian, Mascote and La Yurba Buena.  It was like stepping back into time.  Our tour guide, April, has a nice van, speaks fluent Spanish and knows a lot of the history about these ancient old towns. 

Coffee Beans

Hacienda Jalisco

We drove through Puerto Vallarta and then up into the mountains heading for San Sebastian de Oeste in the state of Jalisco.  Along the way, we pulled off the road and went to the Hacienda Jalisco.  The hacienda was built more than 170 years ago by the Spanish Guard.    Hollywood came to the Puerto Vallarta area where the Night of the Iguana was filmed back in 1964.  Director John Huston and many movies stars came here back in the day while filming the movie.  When tourism came to Puerto Vallarta, the famous faces sought privacy inland and stayed at the Hacienda Jalisco when coming back to visit the area.  If only the walls could talk.  Today it is open to tourism and also functions as a tranquil bed and breakfast still full of original furnishings, photographs and relics from the past.  Coffee beans are still grown, hand-picked, dried and processed here today. 

Cocina Hacienda Jalisco

Fine Dining 

Service Quarters

 Our next stop was the town of San Sebastian.  The air is crisp, clear and cool and with an elevation of 4,500 feet, pine trees grow abundantly here.   Founded in 1605, San Sebastian del Oeste was once one of the gold and silver mining centers of Mexico.  At one time it was the provincial capital and a bustling town of more than 40,000 people.  Today it is it remains with most all of its original stature after the church (and other structures) were rebuilt following a major earthquake in 1864. Today, only about 600 people live here and still hardly a word of English spoken here.   The original hard rock cobble stone streets remain along with beautiful stucco covered brick buildings with red tiled roofs. 

San Sebastain

Muy Bonito

Casa en San Sebastian

Ancient Cobble Stone Streets

Hotel del Puente - San Sebastian

 Original Skeleton Key 

Cowboy Shack

We spent the night at the Hotel del Puente, which is over 350 years old.  It was really nice and still has the ancient wood window shutters and tall double doors with the original skeleton key for securing your room.  After checking in, we walked to a nice ITALIAN restaurant in the middle of San Sebastian for dinner.  There was Italian opera playing softly in the background while we ate in a lovely outdoor patio setting.  The owner and chef made fresh homemade pasta every day.   Together with our guide and our group, we ate, talked, sipped limoncello and had delicious tiramisu for dessert.   Together with the company and the ambiance, dinner was (I believe) the best Italian dinner I've ever had!  With full bellies, we all walked back to our hotel and visited in the social courtyard before retiring to our rooms for the night.

Pearly Gates in La Yurba Buena

Policia Mascota

After breakfast and a cup of stout San Sebastian camp style coffee, we loaded in the van and drove through more scenic back country to the towns of Mascote and La Yurba Buena.  After our short visits in these spots, we left old Mexico behind and headed back to Paradise Village Resort.

Looking for Pancho Villa

 Staying busy every day, time is flying by for Ken and Loree’s one week visit.  After San Sebastian,  we took another day relaxing under a palapa at the beach.  Our next adventure was to Yelapa, a primitive existence accessible only by boat.  With our early morning start and no wind, we motored 3 hours for the 15 mile trip enjoying the scenery and the company.   Don and Ken rigged a fishing pole with a lucky lure hoping to catch a big one on the way.  Unfortunately, they were not so lucky today.  Don explained to big brother, “That’s why they call it fishing…not catching!”  A panga met us to secure Valhalla to a mooring and then gave us a ride to his family’s palapa for lunch before we walked to and through town to the waterfall.  The town of Yalapa is built on a rock hillside surrounded by jungle and the walk was uphill all the way winding through small business and small dwellings. The waterfall was nice, but it was time to get back to Valhalla and head back to Paradise Village.  The Mayan dancer’s perform at 6:00 and we got back just in time to enjoy the show.  We managed to stay busy, have fun and relax during our visit from Ken and Loree.

Ken and Loree

Yelapa

El Tuito River - Yelapa's Fresh Water

 *** Part #3 - North to Mazatlan, Sinaloa

   The Tribe got restless and went ahead of us a few days to enjoy Chacala.  Valhalla made a smooth easy north passage of 39 nautical miles in (only) 8 hours!  It was a motor all the way day, but the wind and sea state made the trip easy on us.  Again, we see more blow spouts and (humpback) whale tails, but no breachings today.  We arrived before sunset to find Kia Ora and The Beguine anchored, but gone to shore to the palapa.  Don and I settled in and stayed aboard Valhalla for dinner and our evening cocktail.

   Kia Ora and The Beguine came by in the dinghy and told us their passage was a bit brutal and the anchorage was rolly.  The next day, we had to agree...it was pretty rolly, unlike last time we were here.  We got in the dinghies and spent the entire next day on the beach sitting, relaxing, eating, drinking and watching our boats roll around, glad to be on shore.  Enough was enough and the next day we were off to San Blas.

    Ready for take-off?  We discovered Valhalla’s starter solenoid was shot.  Don got busy and like a “pro”, hot-wired Valhalla and we were only 15 minutes late on our start time.  Not a major deal, we’ll get our parts in Mazatlan.    San Blas was only a short 23 nautical mile run and again today, more whales.  This time we suspect them to be whale sharks.  San Blass’ channel is really shallow and we got an escort from the Port Capitan into the Fonatur Marina.  

   We had a blast in San Blas, doing the jungle tour, walking to an old Spanish Fort and ruins of the church at the top of the hill overlooking the harbor.   The old hillside fort was built in 1770 by the Spaniards and became the most important shipyard in the pacific, back in the day, defending the town's extensive sea trade.   Another day, we took a panga ride up the estuary through the jungle and saw lots of crocodiles and so many species of birds.   The only negative about San Blas is the jejenes  (pronounced hay-hay-nays) aka no see-ums.  We all got our fair share of bites for sure!  After 5 days, enough was enough and we left our slip in San Blas and headed for Mazatlan.

Fort at San Blas

San Blas Fort Pix

Spanish Fort Still Standing Since 1770

Canons Guard the Bounty

Our Lady of the Rosary - Built in 1769

The Bells of San Blas

San Blas Jungle Tour Pix

   We made the 130 nautical mile run to Mazatlan with fair winds but without the following seas.  It was a 26 hour motor.  Right before sunset, we were treated to hundreds and hundreds of dolphins!  They swam with  and around all of our boats flying up and out of the water doing tricks for us.   They stayed with us for about 30 minutes.   We pulled into Mazatlan into another Fonatur Marina a couple hours after sunrise.  Here we will hang out and wait for parts to repair Valhalla’s ignition problem and explore Mazatlan.  

Tequila Distillery

  Another tour *** This time we took a tour to Los Osuna blue agave plantation a few miles outside of Mazatlan.  Los Osuna still process the blue agave plants using traditional methods and takes pride in the purity of their product.  Because it is produced in Sinaloa, not Jalisco it is not allowed by the government to be labeled or sold as "tequilla".

Order Up!

From Las Hadas, Colima to Mazatlan, Sinaloa,  Don and I on Valhalla travelled north through 4 states for  a total of 332 nautical miles in a leisurely 32 days.  Bashing north along Mexico’s mainland at that rate wasn’t too bad at all. 

  The next few days we’ll be watching the marine weather closely and planning our crossing of the Sea of Cortez to La Paz.  Crossing the Sea is about 238 nautical miles and will take about 48 hours.   We’ll still have about 30 days until our visas expire (and they kick us out of Mexico) and we’ll use that time to explore the islands and anchorages around La Paz before we fly home.  We are both looking forward to coming home for a while to see all our family and friends. 

   The desert setting of La Paz is going to be a whole different experience than the tropical mainland.  I will make one more post from there to conclude Valhalla’s 8 month season of cruising Mexico.  

   Once again, a sincere thanks to all of you who take the time to read our Blog!

More Scenes from Mexico

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