By
suggestion of the Poobah, the Baja Ha-Ha fleet was advised to remain in
Cabo San Lucas due to a strong Northerly wind coming down and across the Sea of Cortez. None of the predicted wind was felt in Cabo and it was HOT,
HOT, HOT all the time we were waiting to leave. We shopped in the air
conditioned mall and ate out a lot avoiding cooking on the boat and trying to stay cool.
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Sunrise at Lands End |
Cabo has a world premier fishing industry
and the marina is full of fishing boats and mega yachts! Every morning about 0500 the fishing boats
all fire up their engines and start gearing up for the day. It's like a
big party on the dock that starts at sunrise. In the evening, the boats all
come back in flying numerous flags that indicate the kind and number of fish
they caught that day; lots of Dorado and
Tuna, for sure!
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Gearing up...Lets Go (Redrum) Fishing |
As planned,
Valhalla set sail for the mainland on Wednesday, November 14, 2012. With our faithful crew of Hugh and Nicki Talman,
we made our crossing of the Sea of Cortez. The Baja Ha-Ha has dispersed with everyone pursuing their own cruising plans and dreams. We covered 268 nautical miles in 54 hours which meant
2 more full nights at sea. During the crossing, we started off with more motoring, then motor
sailing and finally a good run of more than 27 hours straight of great
sailing!!!
Valhalla has now
landed on mainland Mexico on the beach of Chacala, just north of Banderas
Bay. We dropped anchor and stayed in this tropical paradise for two nights. Since crossing the Tropic of Tauras, Chacala
has been our most favorite destination.
It has a beautiful sandy beach, colorful houses with coconut palms and
palapa bars with strolling Mariachi bands.
On the weekend, crowds of Mexican families come to the beach in bus
loads! Little did we know, but
it’s the celebration of the Mexican revolution!
It’s a very festive place and
Valhalla was treated to a premium fireworks display at dark. Their party continued all night long with music
and people swimming in the water and sleeping on the beach under the moonlight.
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Celebrating the Mexican Revolution |
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Coconut Milk in Chacala |
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Strolling Mariachis |
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Valhalla in Chacala |
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Do you like Pina Coladas? |
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Beach House in Chacala |
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Coconut Tree Furniture |
On Sunday we pulled up anchor and sailed to a little island called Isle La Pena. By early afternoon we were anchored right off that island. The island is very small but beautiful with lush vegetation and so many birds. While eating lunch, we watched boatloads of Mexican families coming from the mainland being dropped off on the tiny beach. All four of us piled into t/t Valhalla with our snorkel gear and anchored the dinghy. The water was cool and the snorkeling was good. Pelicans don’t see so well and we were swimming with these enormous birds and various colorful reef fish!
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Isle La Pena |
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The Dock at Isle La Pena |
Later, Don and I went to shore and tried to “mingle” with the Mexicans. It was very evident that, once again, our Spanish skills are definitely lacking. They spoke NO English and our Espanol is still muy malo! I tell you, these two gringos were practically invisible on this undeveloped, non touristo beach. Sunday is family day and they seem to love to flock to the beaches to swim and play in the sand.
By sunset, the beach was deserted and it
was only the four of us on Valhalla anchored at this once again, peaceful-secluded
island. The anchorage was great, but the
next morning we will head to Banderas Bay, just around the corner.
A short time after pulling up anchor at Isle
La Pena, we set the spinnaker and sailed along nicely toward Punta de
Mita. After rounding, the point the hazy
sky made it difficult to even see Puerto Vallarta in the middle of the vast bay. With our course change, we took down the
spinnaker and sailed with a full jib only toward our next stop, La Cruz.
The wind has been light but consistent here
in Banderas Bay and the air temperature still feels 90 degrees with the
humidity. We are all getting a bit tired
of being HOT, HOT, HOT and are wondering when “winter” comes to Mexico. One
thing for sure, we are all looking forward to a nice cool shower with unlimited
water. We have not had that luxury since
leaving Cabo San Lucas.
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Lunch in La Cruz |
La Cruz, Nayarit, Mexico -
The marina at La Cruz is really nice and English is spoken here! The first order of business was to put up the “shade tree” over Valhalla as it is still HOT. The bad thing about the hot? It doesn’t cool down at night either and this makes sleeping difficult.
Town is a short walk away with many tiendas
and restaurants . More Mexican
revolution celebrations are going on here in the city center. The people here are nice and once again, they
seem happy and proud-maybe not as poor as other areas.
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Didgeridoo Dude |
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Salute to Sayulita
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Shopping in Sayulita |
One day, we took a bus to a place called Sayulita. It’s a very quaint little surfer town between Chacala and La Cruz. It was much
bigger than I imagined, but reminded us of Nevada City but on the
ocean. It was off the beaten path and
lots of surfer/hippies live there, many of whom speak English. They’re all trying
to make an honest living peddling their cool, quality handmade arts and crafts. The bus ride was an adventure in itself and
we spent a nice relaxing the day on the beach.
After five nights at La Cruz it was on to
Paradise! This is a 5-star resort with
another nice marina. Paradise Village
Marina is a #1 world class marina. The grounds are immaculately groomed with
coconut palms and banana trees. Marina guests have access to a beautiful sandy
beach, swimming pools, showers, a gym and spa area.
We were invited to a "Welcome to Paradise" party with hosted cocktails and a Mayan show. The costumes were great and we all had a nice evening.
There
is an estuary here that goes back about five miles complete with crocodiles and
iguanas. We took a dinghy ride up the
swamp and spotted huge iguanas and pelicans roosting in the trees. Lucky day we saw no crocodiles. After that
day adventure, the pool was looking pretty good as it is still very hot.
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Swamp in Paradise Village |
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No Swim Zone! |
Soon, we leave for Puerto Vallarta to drop off Hugh and Nicki at the Flamingo Hotel. Together with the Talmans, we completed over 1,100 nautical miles in 34 days on Valhalla. It has been a good trip, but the relentless heat was trying on all of us. We had a lot of great sailing, but also had several days and nights with little or no wind. A little more wind may have helped to keep us cooler, but unfortunately, we cannot choose our weather.
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Our Lady of Guadalupe, Puerto Vallarta |
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The Malecon at Puerto Vallarta |
Don and I spent only one night in the marina at Puerto Vallarta after we left our crew at their hotel. Unfortunately, the marina facilities have not been maintained very well. We took Valhalla back to Paradise where we will stay for a while and do a little bay sailing and work on getting our radar issue resolved. We are both looking forward to having Valhalla all to ourselves for the duration of our Mexico adventure.
So over and out for now from Valhalla. We wish you all back home a Feliz Navidad!
o